Must-have Sarees In your closet!
Contributed By - Sneha Ranebennur
Saree, a six yards long beautifully woven fabric which is an epitome of elegance and style. I am a saree lover and there is no doubt about it, my very fond memory of saree comes from my mother. I have always seen her drape her saree so perfectly and carry it with grace. I used to love going saree shopping with her to the local shops. The salesman flipped open every saree one by one holding out the fabulous design and displayed it flowy over himself. Every pleat and pallu* tells a story with pride. This piece of cloth not only presents emotions. We've all had that thought as a little girl going through our mother’s closet and wearing her bright saree over the jeans or skirts and getting in her shoes admiring ourselves as a reflection of hers. Thus, grew my admiration for Saree.
This time I would like to take you all on a ride to the different states of India and explore with me the rich heritage, designs and story behind every type of saree.
Banarasi from Uttar Pradesh
From the holy land of Varanasi comes the famous Banarasi Silk Sarees. Prized as one of the finest silk in India and their gold and silver brocade or zari, fine silk and opulent embroidery. Characteristically, these sarees stand out because of the sheer weight as well as the intricate details of the borders and pallu. Bootis or small motifs inspired by flowers and leaves are woven throughout the saree, concluding in grand pallu*. Banarasi saree is every woman’s wardrobe essential.
Taant from West Bengal
The Famous Red & White Bengali sarees is considered very auspicious by Bengali women. Taant sarees are made by the weavers with pure cotton threads, making them very light in weight, perfect for the hot and humid Indian climate. However, the color palette doesn’t stick to the monotonous red and white combo. Commonly adorned with traditional patterns of paisleys, flowers, stars, and ornamental motifs. These are very affordable cotton sarees. Bengal has a variety of saree types from Taant, Jamdani, Korial, Tussar, Garad, Murshidabad Silk and Baluchari.
Muga from Assam
The word `Muga’ means golden brown in Assamese. Muga silk is a gorgeous fabric, known for its extreme durability and natural yellowish-golden tint. Also knows as a rare silk found only in Assam and is as expensive as buying gold. A Muga Mekhela Chador is the traditional 2-piece saree worn by Assamese women during weddings and ceremonies. Traditional motifs that are used on the fabric includes geometrical shapes, miniature trees, pigeons and pure zari work gives it a very royal, classy feel. The Muga silk saree is a classic must-have.
Chanderi from Madhya Pradesh
Named after the town of Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh, the most popular handloom locations in India. Its glossy and sheer texture, its light weight and the richness of the drape are enough to enchant anyone. Fabrics used to weave a Chanderi saree are pure silk, Chanderi cotton and silk cotton. The motifs used in Chanderi handloom sarees are gold coin, mango, flowers and many more. Your wardrobe is incomplete without a classy Chanderi silk garment.
Bandhani from Gujarat
Bandhej or bandhani is an ancient tie and dye technique is an intricate process of weaving and a sight to behold. Bandhani work is a result of a lot of designs like little squares, dots and rings. These designs depict the tradition of Gujarat and Rajasthan. Gujaratis would readily admit that navratri/dandiya nights would hardly be the same without bandhani!
Leheriya from Rajasthan
Leheriya has basically come from the word ‘leher’, meaning waves. It is a tie-dye technique resulting in diagonal stripes on fabric, which look like waves. Leheriya is just another form of Bandhani. The saree looks like a burst of color with distinctive pattern. The magic of the leheriya wave never gets old and definite must-have in your closet.
Paithani from Maharashtra
Paithani saree comes from Paithan town in Maharashtra where they are hand woven. What sets this saree apart is the zari border and the motifs that include peacocks, lotus, parrots, flowers and vines which enhances the charm of the pallu*. Paithanis are found only in basic colors like red, yellow, blue, purple, peach-pink, green and magenta as the threads are dyed by the weavers using vegetable dyes. These sarees hold a treasured place and are the symbol of grandeur.
Pochampally from Telangana
Pochampally Ikat sarees are woven in Bhoodan Pochampally, Telengana. The intricate motifs, geometric ikat designs is unique and makes them stand apart. The minute detailing gives it a very captivating effect; if you look at the design directly it can actually have a hypnotizing effect. The uniqueness of Pochampally ikat lies is the smoothness and neatness with which it can get the design onto the fabric. The fabric alternates between cotton and silk. So, if you are sporting a Pochampally saree, get ready for all the compliments too.
Kasavu from Kerala
Kasavu saree is a gold and cream pattu saree from Kerala. Kasavu is the evolved version of a mundu (dhoti), a blouse and a stole and is made in off-white color with golden border. When you drape yourself in a Kasavu saree, it’s almost impossible for you to look anything short of stunning. This saree is worn for weddings ceremonies and festivals especially Onam. With no flashy colors or designs, this saree oozes class and grace.
Mysore Silk from Karnataka
Of all the myriad styles of silk sarees, ‘Mysore Silk Saree’ from Karnataka, is the one and the onliest. The smooth texture with vibrant yet subtle, minimalist design makes it wearable for any occasion be it daily wear, weddings or traditional ceremonies. The most distinct feature of the saree is the use of genuine silk and pure gold zari which gives it a natural sheen and rich texture. Since the sarees are exclusively manufactured and produced, each piece has a distinct mark, that lets you be sure of the authenticity and long-lasting fabric. This saree is one must-have and trust me it’s an evergreen collection.
Kanjeevaram from Tamil Nadu
Kanjeevaram or Kanchipuram silk saree is a magnificent creation of the craftsmen living in a small town, Kanchi (Kanchipuram), Tamil Nadu. Kanjeevaram sarees are combination of numerous colored silk threads. Adding to the attraction of the sarees is the exquisite and elaborate zari (a form of embroidery) work. The motifs used in an Indian Kanjeevaram sari are heavily based on the Pallava temples, palaces and paintings. With the changing times, the design focus has shifted from traditional to more contemporary patterns. They are elegant, refined and graceful, all in one drape. This one is my personal favorite and you will find a lot of these sarees in my closet.
I definitely want all of them in my wardrobe. And you?There are so many more kinds of sarees to pen down all in one go. That’s the richness of textile and handlooms in India. The love for sarees is never-ending for Indian women and makes her look elegant and graceful.
*Pallu: The long part of the saree that trails behind, folded over or wrapped around the shoulder. This is often where an elaborate pattern or best part of the design is showcased.